Story: Turbulent Travels

Last summer was going to be one of our shorter stints at home in Nelson, NZ. We arrived later than usual after a longer 2019 season, and the 2020 season’s work schedule was due to kick off earlier than ever before. It was still early in March - we were hosting EWS racers Ed Masters, Cole Lucas and Mark Scott for a bit of a training boot camp; some local racing then a few big rides and shuttles mixed with some beach time in and around Nelson and Marlborough - when things started to get pretty surreal.

 
 

COVID-19 was unfolding all around the world and we went from carefree summer fun on bikes to lots of uncertainty with the ever-changing situation. Strava and Trailforks apps were quickly replaced by a new set of maps, graphs, stats and figures that everyone checked hourly. After years of social media updates, TV news updates once again became more important. Nervous jokes turned into serious concerns. For our guests, daily ride plans were hastily replaced with ‘get me the hell home’ plans as lockdown loomed. A year’s worth of booked flights, accommodation and travel plans had to be cancelled and delayed; deposits and payments lost or deferred as the world came to grips with the impending crisis. My bike and bag was already packed for a visit to South Africa, as was Sven’s for the Portugal World Cup season opener. Needless to say we both had to unpack our bags again as we settled into the longest stint we’ve ever had at home, since moving to New Zealand. It would be our first winter in almost ten years.

Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined something capable of causing worldwide paralysis in such a short time. We all did our bit, our team of five million. New Zealand, with its compassion and respect for fellow man and woman, fared better than most, if not all, other nations - and for this I’m both proud and thankful. Once the shock of being stranded sunk in, we genuinely enjoyed our extra time at home. I didn’t master the art of wheelies or become fluent in another language (despite best intentions) but we slowed down and enjoyed the quality time we had together. Autumn and winter in Nelson was a breeze, a mild one; I was happy to experience the settled weather, the shifting sunsets and sunrises - and the crisp, clear days were just fantastic. We re-established the veggie garden, adopted stray kittens and got to see our friends far longer than we ever do, which made us feel more part of the community than ever before. Everything was amazing – as if COVID didn’t exist. Even better – it didn’t exist in NZ, because we stopped the spread.

 

However, when the weeks turned to months, I began to feel isolated and even a little panicky. Immigrating to a new land is tough; leaving your whole family behind is a hard decision only made slightly easier by still being able to travel to see them whenever you choose. It’s been hard for everyone; we have all been affected by this in some way or another this year - work and livelihoods have been in jeopardy, or simply evaporated. An international travel ban is a bitter pill to swallow when a family member is diagnosed with a terminal illness. When Europe finally opened their borders to nations who had performed well in managing COVID, we jumped at the opportunity to salvage some work and get one step closer to seeing our families. People were baffled as to why on earth we would even consider leaving the COVID-safe NZ bubble for the crazy, scary, infected world out there! But, we really didn’t have a choice and to be honest, I am thankful for that - because the big, scary, infected world out there wasn’t so bad after all.

In Europe, the people were carrying on with their lives, building up their businesses again, boosting the economy and seeing loved ones. Yes, it was different: we had to wear masks, follow social distancing protocols, be super careful, wash our hands constantly, sanitize after everything and take numerous overly expensive and uncomfortable COVID tests, but at the end of the day - is that really so bad?! Shops and restaurants had their rules and at the busy beaches they cordoned off squares with ropes to safely distance people from on another. I felt totally naked without my mask, but if that’s all I had to do to carry on with work and my life, then I was more than happy to do that. The majority of people we saw, and the places we went, accepted and operated under this new norm so that at least some of this crazy year could be salvaged in a small way. It was wonderful to be back in Europe and the thought of not being allowed to travel again sends shivers down my spine.

 

Events were very different of course - no spectators, no access to pits or even the riders really - but the event organisers and regions managed to make it happen along with the race teams, and it was good to see how an entire industry - that had pretty much come to a complete standstill for over six months - could still continue (with precautionary measures) during a pandemic. Sven’s season went from the usual grueling 30 weeks of back-to-back events to a truncated five week season - better than nothing, but still quite frightening to see how a virus can change up your life just like that. Adapt or die, as they say.

Our usual six months in Europe was cut down to three. We had just settled into this new way of COVID living when it was time to leave again. Besides the work, our true intentions for being in Europe was for quick access to South Africa once their borders reopened. That announcement came on October 1st and, after some very complicated arrangements and a few more COVID tests, we were on a nearly empty plane heading back to Cape Town. Usually, that would be a very exciting flight for us - looking forward to reuniting with our families and friends - but this was a sad flight, as Sven’s mom had passed away just before we could get there to say goodbye, despite our best efforts. Sadly, we are not alone in having to go through this; thousands of others around the world, and in New Zealand too, have been separated by COVID in times of grief and need. So, it was onto another completely different world of worries in South Africa. Adapt, adjust and just keep your chin up.

 

From the very beginning of this outbreak, I was petrified for Africa and what this would do to the continent - a complete humanitarian disaster was what I had feared. There are (very) little to no subsidies for the poor, and social distancing is a luxury for some - simply not an option when you live in a shack or small house with ten other people. Telling people to wash their hands when some don’t even have running water in their homes is impossible, and with no work who has money for hand sanitizer? Often there is not even sufficient money for food. To my relief, they have done pretty well over here. Generally speaking, the people have stronger immune systems in Africa, and it is thought that widespread TB (Tuberculosis) vaccinations have somehow curbed a wildfire spread and kept the death rates surprisingly low. For the most part, people are abiding by the rules, wearing their masks and following protocols. So, once again, I’ve witnessed a country where people are now able to carry on with their lives. It is not without utter hardship, poverty and struggles, but they are carrying on trying to rebuild their lives and keep the economy from completely collapsing. The sheer scale of poverty here is mind blowing and it always takes us a little while longer to “get used to” the complete chaos over here. But, once we do, and we settle into the rhythm of the country, we appreciate it for all the amazing things it has to offer. You really do just adapt, adjust and soak up what this colourful, vibrant country contributes to life's tool belt.

 

Earlier this year, the media constantly portrayed a crazy, mad world outside of safe little old New Zealand, and yes, it was and still is - and to some extent this made me afraid of leaving New Zealand. I guess what I’m trying to say is that you shouldn’t believe all the media hype. Don’t let them scare you. We learn so much by traveling - from other cultures, languages, people and places. I felt alive again and cannot ever imagine a life lived in only one place.

 

As our time here in Cape Town comes to a close, I feel sad to leave. I’ve slipped back into this way of life again, but I’m excited to once again be going back home to New Zealand after five months away, with a whole new arsenal of experiences and adventures and insights into how the rest of the world is faring and coping in their different ways. I’m content - and ready to face another battery of eye-watering Covid tests and a hotel room (with windows which cannot open) for two weeks of confinement… but I’ll do it again and again if it means I can keep traveling, learning and growing from these experiences. Adapt, adjust and keep your chin up.

 

Just for the record though, I will be giving the USA a wide berth for the foreseeable future…

 

Words: Anka Martin

Images: Sven Martin


Story: Ride Welly - Part Two

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Read Ride Welly - Part One here.

 

There’s a chill in the air as we enter into the darker months. Rain has been pelting the roof throughout the night, periodically waking me from my slumber. The wind, the seemingly ever-present wind, is pushing the rain in sideways against the windows. It doesn’t look like easing. Let’s go ride!

 
 

Wellington has a reputation for the kind of weather patterns outlined above, yet in the fourteen years I’ve lived here, I’ve decided that the reputation is not entirely true. Sure, there is a reason that New Zealand’s capital city is known as “Windy Welly”, but on the whole, the good days seem to outnumber the bad, at least to me. And a bit of wind and moisture never hurt anyone.

 

Described by the Lonely Planet travel guide as “the coolest little capital in the world”, Wellington can back up the claim with a vibrant café culture, a healthy live music and arts scene, world-class eateries, a compact central business district and some of the best riding in the country (which, by default, makes it some of the best in the world). The lay of the land makes trails accessible within minutes of the heart of the city in several directions, and there’s no real need to take the car to get to the dirt.

 
 

Mount Victoria

 

Mount Vic is a true blessing for Wellington. From the very heart of the city, if you look up you can see it sitting there, just begging you to come up and enjoy her goodness. The trails there are so good that a round of the XC World Cup was held there in 1997, and National series races are still held there to this day. There are nice and wide and accessible walking/riding tracks that suit all levels, but it’s when you start looking off the sides of the steep slopes that you discover the real gems. Riding these is best done with a local to guide you and warn of the impending drops, chutes and technical challenges that abound on trails like A, V, Damian’s and Boobies. There are, of course, stunning 360º views from the lookout at the top of the hill, which is also the start of the Super D track and the best place to commence each run down the various combinations. It’s easy to put together a half dozen different runs in a couple of hours, and then roll straight into the CBD to re-fuel at any of the myriad craft beer bars or pubs. It’s a lunchtime favourite too, as you can be out of your office and bombing world-class singletrack and back at the desk in the time it takes your colleagues to eat their sandwiches and read the paper. We are blessed by Mt Vic. Praise be.

 
 

Stay tuned for and in-depth article coming out in our forthcoming issue.

Words: Brett Kennedy

Images: Caleb Smith


Story: The (Everyday) Adventure Club

After a career in enduro racing that made him one of New Zealand’s most successful exponents, Jamie Nicoll turned his mind to adventures. The relationships he’d made with sponsors on the racing stage, were strong enough to convert into a new venture: come up with a plan for some sort of voyage into the unknown, and get it supported. Jamie Nicoll Adventures is the result.

A series of adventures have followed, to many points of the compass. His home is a bus he has owned for twenty years and rebuilt several times. Jamie has a pair of Toyota Landcruisers one of them he has outfitted with everything required to survive a trip across the deserts of Australia.

When his bike sponsor, Santa Cruz, were thinking about launching the latest version of the bike they call the Nomad, it made sense that Jamie would be doing it.

 

The Nomad is perhaps the flagship product in the Santa Cruz stable. Conceived as a bike for the big day out, the Nomad led the charge into what are today’s enduro bikes. It isn’t the brand’s enduro race bike, but it is well-capable. It’s a 27.5” wheel brawler that gets as close as the designers could manage to DH performance, while retaining trail-ready behaviour.

To launch the Nomad meant a field trip, a camping journey into the wilds of Marlborough, and a couple of days of varied trails to try the bike out on, with our photographer Cam on a Santa Cruz e-bike to document proceedings.

The idea was to get together in Nelson, then road-trip to Whites Bay, sample some more riding en route, and finish the trip by riding Wakamarina, a trail I have been hearing about for decades. The editor did not have to ask twice - I was ready to go in minutes. Our first stop was Whites Bay. A nice little beach with a bush-clad DoC camp sits in the lap of a steep range, with Mt Robertson at the top. We circled the wagons (both of Jamie’s Landcruisers) and got acquainted with the bikes.

To look at, the new Nomad is like a squared off, muscled up version of its predecessor. An angular look and a side profile featuring acres of Carbon frame give the bike its unique appearance: it looks like something dangerous crouching for a spring. A little bit of air in the suspension, otherwise it felt like home exactly as delivered.

 

Beginning a relationship with a bike is probably best done somewhere other than a 680m ascent. Even a three-day fling would probably turn out happier if there was a gentler start but, after checking the sign, we saw that a DoC walking track directly from the campsite was ok for bikes going up - and that was us, so up we went. The trail was a perfect singletrack climb, and the bike was completely up for it.

170mm of suspension can be a liability when pedalling skywards, but we commented between breaths how nailed modern bikes have become. Sitting in the ‘low’ suspension, and with the shock wide open, it still motored uphill as well as any mountain bike with me on top of it.

 

The Whites Bay trails are a nice little set: The Loop trail was our first target. When the climbing trail crossed the gravel road that takes traffic by an incredibly arduous route to Picton, it turned into a four-wheel-drive track. A steep one, with some sections near the top that were at the edge of what can be done under pedal power. You could be excused for thinking you are near the top at the trail entrance proper - you aren’t. Forsaking the downhill Double Eagle trail, we continued to climb. Another 500m - the majority of the overall altitude gain - happens on singletrack, in beautiful beech forest. It is probably all doable - on the occasional moments where I could see Jamie, it was clear he was riding, but it was too much for me. Repeated very steep, fairly technical sections put the idea of cleaning everything well out of mind - nothing to prove, plenty more hills to clamber up, save some energy for the next days.

Eventually we were at the summit as far as we were concerned, but enthusiasts can turn right and continue up to Mt Robertson’s lofty top, another 400m vertical and three difficult kilometres in the distance. We turned left and started down.

 

I am already scheming a return trip. About four kms of varied trail beckon me back. Roots, rock, ruts and flow are all there in abundance, as well as some excellent views out to the north and east over mountains and sea.

Already I had realised that the Nomad would eat up whatever I pointed it at. The Fox 38 up front was burly and compliant enough that with a bit of momentum I could clatter over very intimidating terrain without a bother. The back end was not even there - so supple and bottomless feeling that all my focus was on the trail and my aim.

The second course was a Landcruiser shuttle back to the top, then the Double Eagle. Another one on my ‘revisit sometime soon’ list. It will be a brilliant trail on the day I get back there, after a week or so of summer dryness, but for the one percenters I guess it actually was brilliant the day we rode it. For me, however, in the conditions, it was a struggle. Lots of rain made a layer of lubrication between the leaf litter and the solid dirt, which meant brakes were useless and the only way to ride it was the way Jamie does – with no brakes.

We repeated the performance on another trail of dubious legality - a really cool ridge running into a tight little valley. Jamie looking unfazed; I was hanging on for grim death.

Even on a very short trip, campsite routine gets established early. The usual operation revolved around Jamie, as the host, pulling out the ingredients and implements, and setting to assembling a meal, while we offered small bits of assistance and discussed what we had seen and done, and what we were doing next. In our downtime we also marveled at the detail of the builds of the Landcruisers, especially the Australia Overlander it is bristling with clever, well-executed modifications, all completed by Jamie. In the morning, we headed over to the Jentree MTB Park, a private property owned and developed by Justin Leov and his partner Tory. Justin is one of New Zealand’s most successful pro downhillers, racing the World Cup circuit as part of a career spanning 16 years and really blazing the way for today’s young kiwi downhillers. Justin had several international podium finishes, and was a regular top ten world cup rider and multiple-time national title holder. After a failed attempt to retire, he followed up with a win and a third place overall in the Enduro World Series.

 

With racing behind him in 2017, the Leovs established Jentree MTB Park on a hill that had hosted downhill racing as far back as the 90s. We were keen to take a look and have a few runs.

It’s amazing what can be done with a relatively small piece of land and a lot of vision. A hundred acres packs in a lot of elevation - it is a 400m climb up a very steep track to the top of the property, and the start of an entertaining nest of trails. It felt like a well aimed rock could land on the Landcruiser parked way below. Even with such precipitous terrain, the trails are sustainably built to provide plenty of speed without creating places where hard braking would chop out the trail surface. A very inspiring project, and a great example of how to put a park together.

 

On the drive through to the Wakamarina River campsite, in Richmond Forest Park, we stopped for a bite to eat in Havelock. Whilst waiting for coffee, we consulted Trailforks and found a nearby trail called “Good-For-Nothing”. Allegedly dropping out of the bush a block or so from where we sat, it began on top of the ridge directly behind town. A bit more fossicking on Trailforks showed an access road not far away, so we loaded up one of the trucks and went to check it out.

After a nice rideable climb (mental note for future excursions) and another outstanding Marlborough view, we dropped into Good-For-Nothing.

You can’t tell a book by its cover, and you can’t read too much into a name. This little trail is only a tad over three kilometres long, but it is close to perfection in my humble opinion. The good people of Havelock may not enjoy dozens of trails on their doorstep, but the one they have is worth doing dozens of times. Rocky and exposed at the top, rocky and deep in the woods on the way down, loamy and almost jungly at the bottom. Yeehaw.

The drive in to Wakamarina from Canvastown on the main highway, follows a classic New Zealand backroad. Wide and easy-going to begin, the road gradually narrows, coils itself up, and sheds its tarmac before delivering punters to the very end. Facing a mountainside draped in beech forest, the grassy fields for campers were deserted except for one lonesome little van. The Wakamarina River runs beneath the campsite, a rocky watercourse with crystal clear water in deep pools and gentle rapids. Jumping in was more or less compulsory after our hot and dusty day, and the water was as cold as it was clear. Just to make sure, we jumped in again, and learned that once was probably enough. Another idyllic night under the stars followed, with Jamie slinging veggie burgers and all of us conking out fairly soon after dinner.

 

The next morning started early. Riding Wakamarina South-East-to-West (the only logical way to do it - see below) requires a bit of logistical maneuvering. It is about an hour and twenty around to the south-eastern trailhead, and we figured we would take about five hours to get through, allowing for the time it takes to ride a few stretches twice (or more) for photographic purposes. My slot for leaving Nelson was 4:30, and Nelson was an hour and a half away... we reckoned we had to be back at camp by one. That meant a 7am pickup by the Blue Moon shuttle driver from Havelock.

 
 

Excitement or sandflies saw us all out of the sleeping bags and into our kit by 6:15am. Even the knee pads were on .... sand-flies. A couple of stovetop coffees, morning ablutions, a bowl of Yum granola, and we were ready to hit the trail. The driver turned up on cue, and the big day started.

A note on the weather: it was perfect. Completely bluebird,but not really that hot. Lucky Strike #1. Lucky Strike #2 was being delivered right to the trailhead. The approach to the trail is through some forestry, and the word was that maybe it would be closed and we would be riding from about 6km short of the trailhead. That’s not far, but Wakamarina starts 600m above sea level. Having that 600m in the tank would be better than spending it getting started. Some of us had our own little lucky strikes along the way .... more on that later.

The trail sets out fairly flat, and even goes a little downhill, so we motored along feeling like the very lucky people we were. A few glimpses of the view were all we got, and soon enough the trail tipped up and we started to climb.

That first climb is only 5km or so, and gains about 500m - small numbers that do not reflect reality. It is hard! Stunningly beautiful trail has been carved out of the rock by miners in the 1800s and, in many places, it is much as it would have been then. The climb is unrelenting and follows a ridge to a saddle where a side trail leads up to a clearing at Fosters Hut.

The outlook from that point, over a kilometre above sea level, was spectacular.

 

The run back down to the saddle was followed by a long downhill with quite a few water crossings, which were slippery and exposed. That is where I had my Lucky Strike #3: coming into a section where the trail changed from a fairly well-formed surface to a V-shaped defile, with rough rocks on one side and a smooth sheet of rock rising up on the other. I should have stuck my front wheel into the bottom of the slot, but I had a go at the rock slab on the left. It was slipperier than it looked, and I fell hard onto it, landing on my hip, which still has a big lump on it. But, that was the only damage, from my only crash, so I was lucky. Actually, and more correctly, it was my only crash if you don’t count the other one.

After the last drop into a watercourse, a steep and boulder strewn thing best left to the one percenters, the legendary Wakamarina Hike-A-Bike began.

 

Marlborough trails seem to condense distance and difficulty to rock-hard things that confuse the newcomer. The hike-a-bike is one and a half kilometres long, and only gains 290m. Some of it is actually rideable. The bits that aren’t really aren’t, they are barely walkable. At one point, as I wrestled my now completely useless pile of carbon and alloy technology around a fallen tree that was hung up at 45 degrees on a similarly angled slope, I seriously wondered if I had left this particular life goal too late. As in, will I get to the top - alive? How our photographer managed with his even more useless e-bike and a gigantic pack full of cameras is anybody’s guess, I certainly couldn’t have.

But the thing about sections of trail like that, is that sooner or later, they do end. And to be honest, every so often I stopped toiling upwards and looked around - it is a majestic place to walk a bicycle. We came to a ridge, which I stupidly assumed was the top of the climb - it wasn’t, we were just over halfway. Far ahead, I could see Jamie pedalling a steep trail. That inspired me to get aboard my machine again, but the bits I could ride were so short that the time and effort it took to stop, clamber on, pedal away, then dismount ten metres along the trail were more than what I lost by plodding along on foot.

 

Not far shy of the actual summit we were back on our bikes and crawling along in low gear. Cam got a stick in his derailleur and snapped the entire mechanism off. Not the hanger, which could arguably be fixable, but the derailleur itself.

 
 

He pushed to the top, where Jamie was sunning himself and eating a snack. The chain was removed, and a gravity sled was the result. Perfect for what lay in front of us: 800 metres of descending in 2.5 kilometres.

Once again, that contraction of time and space: two and a half kilometres that will be burned into my memory for ever I hope: dozens of switchbacks, seas of ground ferns, massive buttress root systems supporting huge black-trunked beech trees, and a constant need to pay attention to where you are going. It felt like a lot further, but it was over much too soon.

 

The trail out is relatively flat. But only relatively. After we checked out the historic old slab hut at Devils Creek, we were in for a lumpy six kilometre run back to the cars - with plenty of time, on an operational bike. But of course, one of the bikes was not operational. An e-bike with no chain is about 250watts worse than a regular bike with no chain.

Cam was pretty keen to create a single speed out of the e bike. Both Jamie and I were pretty sure it wouldn’t work - compounding a chain’s general tendency to shift gears by itself until it is so loose it falls off is the suspension bike’s tendency to stretch the chain as the suspension goes though its motions. And of course, chains don’t stretch.

There was a brief stand-off, while discussion was had about whether trying to fix the bike would ultimately gain or waste time. In the end Cam won, and the two of them worked together to make the repair. Jamie got the quick link undone by hand (not easy) and Cam riveted the thing back together at what he thought was the right tension - and off he went.

 

To our collective amazement, it held together long enough for the battery to go flat (it’s a big ride), and we got back right on schedule, something that never happens on a normal mountain bike ride, let alone with a giant traverse of a couple of ranges in a remote location, with a photographer.

At the end of three big days riding fresh trails, I had formed a trusting accord with the Nomad. It was there for me when I needed it, which was more often than not. It really lived up to its name. Rinsing off in the river was as lovely and brutal as it had been the day before. The three days on a Jamie Nicoll Adventure were over way too soon, but it felt like we had set out from Nelson a long time ago. That Marlborough time warp again.

Words: Gary Sullivan

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Story: Outta Range on the Old Ghost Road - Presented by Bosch Pt. 3

8:50am/0kms/Full Battery.

As soon as we entered the trail and attacked the long climb, the countdown began. This is one hell of a climb up to 1,456m, and it covers 28km in the process. Our estimates were that we’d have around half the battery by the time we reached the summit. The day dragged on and so did the bloody climb and the range anxiety only got stronger as we saw the battery status bars dropping. This was the reason behind our ever-growing stress about whether we’d make the whole trail or not. And, more importantly, what we’d do if we failed.

 

12:30pm/16kms/45% Battery.

The climb is steep for the first 10km, then flattens before ramping up again for the last 8km. Most of the last section is loose and soft which sucks a lot of energy. For the whole ride, we decided we’d use eco mode in order to conserve the battery. By this point we were pretty jaded so we munched on some lollies and tried to suppress the stress of the low percentage battery. It was evident that whatever happened, it would be a challenging afternoon.

 

1:30pm/28kms/32% Battery.

We finally reached Heavens Door and we could see bad weather coming in and the temperature was dropping. As we sat beside the trail eating some Scroggin, a few snow flurries came down and I had the sense of being a little more scared than worried. Some more food was consumed, then we rode the highest part of the trail which is super epic with views, but it has a ton of exposure. At this point, I turned the battery on/off whenever it was needed, in order to try and conserve it.

 

2:10pm/30kms/28% Battery.

Yes - slight relief! We made it to Old Ghost Lake hut for lunch and unpacked our grub. This is the beauty of mountain biking - it gives you access to remote parts that would otherwise go unseen. We were quite broken and needed a ton of food to replenish ourselves. They may be eMTBs but you still need to ride them. Even though the bikes have power assist, it still takes its toll. Whatever the rest of the day delivered, we were still super thankful to be in this incredible backcountry.

2:45pm/30kms/28% Battery.

After seeing the battery status pop up again on the Bosch Kiox and knowing we only had a few hours of daylight to play with, it was getting sketchy. We didn’t mind riding in the dark, but without battery assist the bikes would become very heavy. At this point a second battery would have been ideal. However, that wasn’t the case, and after some discussions about making a call whilst we had phone reception it was one of three options. One - ride out the best we could and, if we didn’t make it, find a hut to park in for the night (bearing in mind we didn’t have overnight clothes or enough food for two days and we’d still need to get out the next day - without electric assist). Two - ride back to the start point in Lyell then try and get someone to relocate the car back for us. Three - get a helicopter out of the trail and over to Seddonville; we opted for this option. This decision was made mainly thanks to my contacts at Murchison Heli Tours. I put the call to Ange and explained our situation - within an hour, Rob (the pilot) was in the air.

 

4:13pm/38kms/20% Battery.

The evacuation – Rob jumped out of the heli and shook my hand strongly, then laughed about the situation we’d found ourselves in. As we flew back across the incredibly rugged terrain, I was resentful that we didn’t get to ride out, however, we were both thankful to be getting out safely and there was relief after spending most of the day in a state of anxiousness. After landing, and thanking Rob and his crew, we met a couple who’d ridden it in one day on eBikes. Their story, however, was a little different: they both took - and needed - two batteries.

The Conclusion

A few pints of beer went down in the Seddonville Hotel whilst the locals sung songs. We yarned about what went wrong. How could we have done it better? Why did we use so much battery? Surely, we could have gone further. The long list of questions did get answered, but it opened up a new set of answered questions too. For

both of us, the thought of not completing the task was a hard pill to swallow. That said, I was thankful to be sitting in a warm pub sipping a cold beer, rather than out on the trial somewhere without any eBike battery assist.

 

Now, we must note, we were trying to find the limits of the eMTB Bosch Gen4 batteries - and as you’ve read, we did! But the trail can be (and should be) ridden with two eBike batteries. Of course, as technology evolves, so will the range. Whilst eBikes are quite advanced and offer great accessibility they, like most things, have their limitations. I for one can’t wait for the next era of eMTBs! Old Ghost Road on eMTBs will be revisited - and next time we will be more prepared - so stay tuned for the next episode!

 

Words: Liam Friary

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Story: Outta Range on the Old Ghost Road - Presented by Bosch Pt. 2

The Mission

 

We wanted to ride the iconic Old Ghost Road in a day, on eMTBs. We knew this could be done with ‘acoustic’ bikes (or a bike that’s not e-assisted) but could it be done with eMTB’s with only one battery?! We packed our bikes, gear and cameras then took a road trip to the mighty West Coast. Anxiety, anticipation and mild stress was mulling over and rolling around in our heads. Could we make it? What would the day bring? Would we still be riding come nightfall? Would we have to walk the bikes out due to flat batteries? Plus a long list of other unanswered questions.

 
 

After a long time transferring from Christchurch, we bowled up on Seddonville Hotel. It’s deep and remote but has damn fine hospitality, cosy rooms, a roaring fire, wooden bar and eclectic bunch of people. In preparation for the mission we ordered pints of Speights and ribeye steak with fries - proper west coast food! After that, we hustled to get everything sorted for the next day’s adventure.

 
 

The first thing we did was charge the batteries on both bikes. We had a Cannondale Moterra and Trek Rail, both using the Bosch Performance Line CX with 625wh batteries. Bosch has a range finder on their website and we both ran it for the bikes, our weight and the trail conditions. It was spitting out around 75-81km for battery range across Old Ghost Road for both of us. Either way we knew it’d be touch and go. We threw all the essentials into our backpacks; I took the food, first aid kit, PLB (personal locater beacon) and 3L of water, whilst Cameron had to lug his cameras up the trail. I roughly estimated around 7kg for my bag and probably around 9kg for Cam’s camera bag.

 
 

We finally hit the sack. As I lay in bed, the few beers helped the anxiety somewhat but I was still a little nervous. The next day dawned; I pulled back the covers and flicked on the jug. It felt cold and as I pulled the curtains back, they were stuck to the ranch-slider due to the moisture. I looked outside and there wasn’t a cloud in sight. The moon was shining its light over the quiet valley and the hills were still in darkness. The outside temperature was around two degrees. We downed some warm porridge and coffee, and rustled our packs before we jumped in the Ute and hauled round to the trail head in Lyell. The drive over had sunrise on offer, the layers of colour were incredible. Miners wearing hi-vis vests lined the roadside in the small towns of Buller’s coast, waiting for their shuttle pick-ups whilst we zoomed past. It was an incredibly clear day - hoots and hollers rang out between us about the day we’d scored. However, as we entered the Lower Buller Gorge, the mist and cloud began to hug the mountain ranges. As we ventured further on the road inland it got thicker. There was an eerie feeling about it, and again the anticipation of what lay ahead boiled up inside me.

Words: Liam Friary

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Story: Outta Range on the Old Ghost Road - Presented by Bosch Pt. 1

Whilst on a road trip in the South Island, we thought we’d head over to tackle the iconic Old Ghost Road. But we decided we’d try and ride it a little differently – instead of staying a few nights in a hut, we’d try and nail the trail in one day on eMTB’s – should be easy right?! Cameron Mackenzie (our handy photographer) would be using a loan Trek Rail eMTB and I’d be on a new Cannondale Moterra eMTB, which was under review.

 
 

With the launch of the new Bosch Performance CX motor, Cannondale completely redesigned the Moterra for 2020, to accommodate the new system. The pedalling position on the Cannondale Moterra 1 is central, upright and very comfortable. The slack seat tube angle positions the rider far over the rear wheel on steep climbs, unweighting the front tyre and sagging into the rear travel. However, the front wheel remains on the ground the moment you shift your weight forward slightly, though it isn’t very precise in tight turns. Thanks to the traction offered by the rear wheel and the excellent eMTB mode of the Bosch motor, the Cannondale Moterra 1 makes easy work of steep climbs. Going downhill, you feel like you’re sitting in the Cannondale Moterra 1 rather than on top of it. The Moterra 1 instils you with confidence on the descents, which is only amplified by the MAGURA MT7 brakes. The Moterra 1 handles with predictable precision. Once you’ve decided where you want to go, it will hold its line no matter how imperfect your posture or riding technique. The FOX suspension absorbs all the bumps, though it could offer the rider a little more feedback from the trail. More playful riders will want a little more support from the suspension, to pop off roots and ledges, but above all the Moterra 1 feels stable.

 
 

Our base was the West Coast coal-mining settlement of Seddonville, 50km north of Westport, named in honour of the legendary Liberal Premier, Richard Seddon. It was also the site of an early experiment in state socialism – New Zealand’s first state-owned coal mine opened there in 1903. Seddonville is in the isolated north of the West Coast in the foothills of the Glasgow Range, on the southern bank of the Mokihinui River. Seddonville isn’t the easiest place to get to, as with most of the West Coast of the South Island. The coast is isolated for a reason and that’s the gem of the region - it’s almost stuck in time or at least it feels that way when you’re there.

 
 

Words: Liam Friary

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Story: Destination Marlborough Pt. 2 - Presented by Pirelli

To read the full story, subscribe here to NZ Mountain Biker.

To read part 1, click here.

 

The boat ride the next morning was back to Torea Bay, to complete the track with what looked like an easy sort of effort, only about 19 kilometres.

We knew the day would start with a grunt. The combined tarmac and trail ascent gets riders to 407m, in about 2.5 kilometres. You can peer almost straight down on the jetty where you started. That sort of caper continues for quite a way, and it makes things tough. All that effort was rewarded with a spectacular view from the day’s second high point, and a very exciting switchback descent.

 
 

The relatively mellow ride from there to Anakiwa was made more interesting by the clock, we were running late; and by the e-Bike, which for the second day had run low on power. Where the first day’s battery outage was softened by a mostly downhill finish, the run to Anakiwa was rolling trail with plenty of ups. We rode it at the best pace we could muster, and got to a slightly miffed ferry pilot about 20 minutes behind schedule, then had to wait for the unfortunate e-Biker, who sprinted down the jetty five minutes later.

A long discussion over beers at the Oxley ensued – how to recommend the Queen Charlotte to bike riders? Moving on to the excellent (if slightly rustic) Jolly Roger café, the discussion continued at dinner. We reckoned all of it would pay back reasonably fit and able mountain bikers in spades – every section has something to put a smile on your dial.

The gem is definitely Ship Cove to Camp Bay, and that’s the part that is closed to bikes during summer: December 1 to the end of February. The rest of the trail would be fairly brutal on a hot summer day, and you would miss the best part during the height of summer. We reckoned a shoulder season foray would be best.

The last day of our Marlborough adventure was to be an assault on Nydia Bay. This trail has been talked about for decades, and even raced in the NZ Enduro. How I had managed to miss out on it until now is a mystery, but my time had finally come.

 

The drive to Havelock behind us, we met up with the very helpful Kelly, from Destination Marlborough, who would drop us at the trailhead then drive around to Kaiuma Bay to retrieve us. That is an aspect of the Nydia Bay ride that needs to be factored in, if you want to take in the entire 27 kilometres in a single serve.

We decided to add in the Opouri Bridle Track, so Kelly delivered us to the Opouri Saddle and we dropped straight into some of the best trail you will find, anywhere. Benched into steep terrain, the Bridle Track drops over 530m in about five kilometres, so it is nearly all downhill but never very steep.

The trail is all rideable, but not by me. The consequences of failing on some sections would not be good, and we were on a day-long mission we wanted to complete intact. Having said that, on the Bridle Track there were only a few spots that needed a quick dab or a dismount, and most of it was ridiculous fun.

The arrival at Duncan Bay, where the road ends, is an anti-climax: the trail pops out directly onto the road, which meanders along the shoreline to a jetty, and the start of the Nydia Bay Track proper.

The trail climbs gently, hugging the coast and offering up views of the water all the way. There were a few root snaggles along the way, but pretty soon the trail tipped upwards and the real fun started.

 
 

The Nydia Bay Track is a nicely benched trail on a very climbable grade – but every so often it presents a very interesting challenge. It might be a tangle of roots snaking across the line, and the next little heart-stopper might be a rocky outcrop that has resisted the trail builder. So you tripod over it, or dismount and walk a few paces. Intermittent watercourses traverse the trail, some are dry and can be crashed through, some are running with clear water, are steep sided, and slippery as eels.

From the ridge to the sea at Nydia Bay must be about as much fun as you can have on a mountain bike, as long as you watch where you are going.

It is possible to ride most of the ‘maybe’ bits with the momentum of going downhill on your side, and cackling to yourself while you clatter down a tricky but rideable section unscathed is a rare pleasure. Except when it isn’t rideable. Those bits come along without warning, see above about watching where you are going. Cam would go ahead to scope out photography opportunities, and sometimes station himself so he could catch us as we came along. I saw his head and shoulders over the crown of the trail ahead, and looked at him for a poofteenth of a second too long. Just enough time for my front wheel to drop off the trail, which I got a close look at a split second later. It was a funny crash, no harm done, made funnier by the fact that Cam hadn’t stopped for a photo op, he had also upended himself.

 

We dropped in to Nydia Bay at the same time as the rain that was forecast, and we were glad to have completed the descent in relatively dry conditions. Pristine forest gave way to scrappy pine forest, with every piece of machinery that has ever come in by boat, then worn out, still laying around. Simple little houses were dotted among the trees, and the trail became muddy and almost swampy in spots.

 

At Nydia Bay Lodge we pulled off the track to have a look and a bite of lunch. The Lodge managers were in residence, although the Lodge was a month or so from opening for summer. They were keen for a chat, and brewed us a coffee which was a welcome treat. We sat on the veranda and watched the rain, chewing over the day so far, as well as our sandwiches. We reckoned anybody who relished riding a difficult trail would love Nydia Bay track, but anybody at all would enjoy walking in for a stay at the lodge, and the walk back out out again the same way.

An out-and-back bike ride would also be a goer, with a bit more hike-a-bike on the return trip, but an easier descent to finish, and no need for a shuttle.

 

For us though, we were heading up another climb, now in a howling gale and sideways rain. The climb through farmland and up to Kaiuma Saddle is actually higher than Nydia by a few metres, but it’s a lot less difficult. So is the descent – it is not easy, but it’s not as gnarly as Nydia, even in the rain. That weird transition from native forest to plantation pine always amazes. The trail surface changed from weather beaten rock and tree roots to cushioned orange pine needles, and we dropped the final few kilometres into a valley and across a stream before a last fairly brutal climb.

The last downhill was wide open, an easy run down to the Kaiuma Bay road and Kelly in a waiting car, complete with a change of clothes and warm dry interior. Havelock put on hors d’oeuvres at the Mussel Pot - another excellent dinner at the Captain’s Daughter, and the bike trip was done.

We were all pretty pasted by this time. Over 100kms of unfamiliar trails, saving the toughest for last, and a solid 4000m of climbing, made for three long but incredibly rewarding days.

Marlborough had turned on a varied and top quality selection of mountain biking, and Picton had become a new favourite New Zealand town. The top of the south has a heap more trails to offer, and we were all thinking about the next visit before we had even departed.

 

Words: Gary Sullivan

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Build Series: Ibis Mojo x SRAM AXS Pt. 3

This is a review of the bike, so I will not rant on about this set-up, except to say that once I got used to it I stopped thinking about it. I didn’t change anything except the seat height - the frame size was large, so I am lucky my shorter-than-average legs were able to reach the drivetrain with the seat post at its lowest position. In fact, it was the perfect height, and the extra length provided by the bigger frame size meant my longer-than-average torso felt about right on it. The tall head tube put the bars at a higher relative position than what I am used to, and that took a short while to get used to.

 

By halfway up the first climb, I felt right at home. The climbs we tackled later in the day were much worse - long sections of both our Queen Charlotte days ran right along the top of a ridge, and some sections were stupidly steep. The Ibis ate this stuff up. When I got off and walked the bike it wasn’t because the bike was not up to the task.

The bike has a 76.6-degree seat tube, which puts the rider in a good position over the bike for climbing - scooch forward on the saddle and the front end will stay planted until you run out of gears (or willpower). Heading back down towards sea level, the bike immediately felt very comfortable. The head angle of 65.4 degrees keeps everything calm and predictable. The DW-Link rear end works with what Ibis call ‘Traction Tuned Suspension’. The best way I can describe the ride is floating, like a hovercraft. It felt bottomless, and definitely as though there was more to the travel than 130mm.

 

One aspect of the bike that I thought about before saddling up was the wheel size - I had done three years on a 29er, and the conventional wisdom states that the bigger wheels roll over stuff better, provide more traction and allow more wiggle room in uncharted territory, which is where we were going. I need not have worried - in practice there was nowhere the wheel size felt like a liability, and the slightly smaller hoops may have been more playful, whatever that means. The three days of the test period covered an amazing variety of terrain and trail surfaces, and some of it was downright dangerous. By the time we were on the really challenging stuff, I had complete faith in the Mojo and it never let me down. I aimed it where I wanted to go, and that is where it went.

 

Rider: Liam Friary – I might be the publisher of this here magazine, but I don’t get aboard too many test mountain bikes. My interest was piqued when the Ibis Mojo 4 was touted. I liked that the bike was short travel, 27.5” wheel size (which is what’s on my current bike) and that it screamed playfulness.

I ventured down to Rotorua straight after our trip down south. The extensive trail network would be an ideal testing ground for the Mojo. Immediately, I could feel the bike’s superb pedalling efficiency. I meandered onto some single track climbs and the rig simply ate up anything in its way. The ease of manoeuvrability was also noted. The power I was generating went straight to the pedals - this was helped by the 76.6 seat angle, which put me in a powerful position. I was impressed! But was more impressed about staying on the bike throughout uphill technical sections, which I sometimes struggle with. The rig just ploughed through and kept me moving forward. On the ups, most of the time, I’d leave the FOX DPS rear shock in ‘Trail’ mode and didn’t even think to switch it over to ‘climb’ mode – which pays tribute to the bike’s incredible climbing capability. Especially the V5 DW-link – the thing doesn’t bob. It’s just so damn efficient!

 

On the downs, the rig’s ability came into its own. It sucks up anything with ease and lets you add flair on the trail without making you pay for it. Again, on the super technical trails, I sometimes struggle but this rig ate em’ all up and kept me upright. I was fooled into thinking I was a better rider than I actually am. The bike’s capability far exceeds the 130mm travel that it has. It’s predictable at speed, stable, and keeps you on course – point it where you want it to go, and it will go! The short chainstays got me in and outta’ turns super quickly – it feels snappy. It’s lively, light, nimble and offers a ton of confidence with its superb traction. It sticks you to the ground and ramps up quickly, avoiding harsh bottoming out. I for one have been super impressed with this bike and, after the awesome time spent riding it in Rotorua, won’t be giving it back anytime soon.

 

Words: Gary Sullivan & Liam Friary

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Story: Destination Marlborough Pt. 1 - Presented by Pirelli

To read the full story, subscribe here to NZ Mountain Biker.

 

Picton is a town most people like passing through. As the ferry terminal for the South Island, travel in either direction involves Picton. If you’re a lucky Northerner arriving in the South Island, it’s a sort of welcome sign that flashes past as soon as you hit the road out. You might spend a couple of hours there on the way back, but if you’re anything like us you will be exhausted and in a kind of funk about having to head back to normality.

Located at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound, the town is small enough to feel crowded into the water by the surrounding bush, but large enough to support a great variety of accommodation, transport, and eating options.

 
 

Picton is the traditional hopping-off point for the Queen Charlotte Track. Scratched out of the tough terrain in the early 80s, based on sections of historic trails, the track was opened to walkers in 1983. Keeping a track that is 71 kilometres long in operational condition was beyond the capabilities of the determined people that instigated it, but with the formation of the Department of Conservation in 1987 - and a big effort involving people from DoC and the Air Force - the track was cleared and improved and has been a favourite ever since.

Open to bikes except for a section that closes over the height of summer, the Queen Charlotte was a shoo-in to the National Cycleway project. Unlike many trails developed since, Queen Charlotte was not built for bikes, and that is what makes it so unique as a bike ride.

You travel to the northern start point by boat (it’s the only way to get there), a scenic jaunt from Picton that takes about an hour. You step off the boat in the solitude and spectacle of Ship Cove / Meretoto, the hills ringing with birdsong.

Many people choose to use the other unique feature of Queen Charlotte – a fine selection of accommodation literally en route. Riders can have their gear ferried to many stops along the trail and make the ride last two or three days with no need to be weighed down by baggage. We’d done that on a previous expedition and it was a really good way to do it. Another special feature is that anybody who doesn’t want to ride a section, or in fact any of the trail at all, can go by boat, and be located in a deckchair with a wine and a book by the time the riders come along.

 

On this outing, we took a different tack, and based ourselves at the Yacht Club for the duration. There are solid arguments in favour of either approach, but the upside of a fixed base is the opportunity to let your kit explode across a room and only have to round it all up again once. As we had two days to do Queen Charlotte, and a third day to ride the legendary Nydia Bay Track, the fixed base won out. The bonus was a couple of extra boat rides, and spectacular dinners in Picton.

Our first day was pegged to be a 51km effort from Ship Cove to Torea Bay. We had breakfast in the hotel, then did the freewheel to the waiting ferry. The boat had a very nice roof-rack with space enough for heaps of bikes, ours as well as some bikes belonging to friends we had along for surprise company – Kylie and Matty were out for a day ride before heading further south. There was space for several more.

 
 

The start of Queen Charlotte Track at Ship Cove is stunning. There is ancient forest, clear water under the jetty, and on this day, a certain trepidation on my part about the first part of the route. On our previous mission, the first climb was very hard. It went straight up, and was almost impossible to ride. To my relief, the track has had some major upgrades, and the new line is a textbook example of how to get to a pretty decent height without too much pain.

The trail switchbacks its way up through the forest before the climb topping out at 237m with a long view toward the rest of the ride. Diving off the saddle there is a really nice section of very fast, wide open trail down almost to sea level in a couple of kilometres, before the climb to the next saddle gets underway. The trail is classic back-country mountain biking.

 

The Sounds is an amazing place to be – every piece of land seems impossibly steep, and the shore is so convoluted that the Sounds contain 20% of New Zealand’s total coastline. Every high point presents another aspect of that complex geography.

 

It is after the climb to Kenepuru Saddle that the trail starts to be a grind. Following the ridge gives many opportunities to look out across the Sounds, but it also results in some very steep climbs. Still, among the relentless, almost unrideable ascents, were some neat little sections of downhill. The final descent to Torea Bay, and the surreal experience of rolling on to a jetty where a ferry waited, was a fitting end to the day’s ride.

 

Words: Gary Sullivan

Images: Cameron Mackenzie


Build Series: Ibis Mojo x SRAM AXS Pt. 2

To read Pt. 1 in this series, click here.

 

When it comes to wrenching on bikes, it doesn’t get much better than this.

 

 

This isn’t the first Ibis I’ve built and it likely won’t be the last - for good reason. The attention to detail on any Ibis frame is second-to-none, and that comes across loud and proud the minute you get a frame or bike in the stand. This translates to an easy, clean build, and this latest creation was no exception.

I almost wish we built this Mojo up with cabled gearing, simply down to the simplicity of cabling the rear derailleur, dropper and brake. All Ibis frames feature internal tubing for the cabling to route through, resulting in rattle-free builds and tool-free assembly; you just route the cable through one end and out it pops at the other.

 

SRAM’s AXS take all the fun out of that process: it’s too easy. I know it sounds like a complaint - it isn’t! - but when a frame is so well crafted, you want to be able to enjoy the experience of assembling it, rather than just attach components via a thread and it be over.

There isn’t any commentary really, other than to say that with good ingredients and good prep, the results yield exactly what you hoped for, without issue.

 

A short travel 27.5” bike with aggressive geometry of this nature seems to be a dying breed, and the mullet build would have helped to increase the lifespan and versatility of the Mojo. It’s not to say that the recommended setup is bad, just that things could be done differently, for better or worse. It was something I’d pushed for, but brand constraints meant we’d need to keep things clean shaven.

I’m sure this won’t be the last time we work with the Mojo. The mullet seed has been sown, so let’s see what comes of that in future issues.

 

To read the full story, subscribe to NZ Mountain Biker Magazine here.

 

Words & Images: Cameron Mackenzie